2016 - Walks Leading with HF Holidays

I now have all my locations for leading walks with HF in 2016. So really looking forward to next year:-

• Derwentwater (Lake District) - 1 week, 
• Sorrento (Italy) - 2 weeks, 
• Glencoe (Scotland) - 2 weeks,
• Adelboden (Switzerland) - 1 week,
• Mayrhofen (Austria) - 2 weeks,
• Glencoe (Scotland) - 1 week,
• Norcia (Italy) - 2 weeks,
• Coniston (Lake District) - 1 week.

Details available at www.hfholidays.co.uk

Sixteen Munros!

The last few months have been very productive from a Munro bagging perspective. We had a lovely holiday at Balmacara near Kyle of Lochalsh with friends and family where we climbed two Munros on the North side of Glen Shiel; Sgurr a' Bhealaich Dheirg (peak of the red pass) and Saileag (little heel). We also walked on Skye and had a lovely walk to what's known as the Gates of Affric (Bealach an Sgairne).

The Cuillin on Skye

Then in the first week of October, Dorothy and I took the Camper Van to Loch Lomond. We parked up at Inveruglas and climbed Beinn Vane (middle hill), returning via the Loch Sloy Dam. Good facilities at Inveruglas, a cafe and loos and no objections to overnight stays. Very enlightened. Then we drove to Arrochar and parked in a secluded section of the car park near a sign saying 'No Overnight camping'. From here we climbed Beinn Narnain (hill of notches) and Beinn Ime (butter hill). Good views on both days.

 

The Cobbler from below Beinn Narnain.

We then drove round to the head of Loch Fyne. Parking at the start of the next day's walk was conveniently close to the Loch Fyne Restaurant, where we had our dinner. Next day we had a long walk to the summit of Beinn Bhuidhe (yellow hill). It was a long walk in from the head of Loch Fyne to Inverchorachan and then a steep ascent to Beinn Bhuidhe. Once we reached the upper corrie the rain started and on the ridge it was difficult to stand up because of the wind and driving rain. Dot and I pushed on to the summit to find the smashed trig point and then struggled back down to the upper corrie. We then followed the very ugly track created by the Hydro Scheme back into Glen Fyne. We were glad to be staying in bed and breakfast that night as it gave us a chance to dry out.

Inverstrae B&B was very welcoming. From here we climbed Beinn a Chochuill (hill of the hood) and Beinn Eunaich (fowling hill) in better weather.

We were at home for a week before the forecast of high pressure over Scotland tempted us to load up the van for another trip. We drove to Glen Affric by Loch Beinn a' Mheadhoin.

Loch Beinn a' Mheadhoin

Again a lovely car park with loos! On the following day we ascended Toll Creagach (rocky hollow) and Tom a' Choinich (hill of the moss). Some incredible views.

That evening we drove to Loch Cluanie and parked down the road from the Cluanie Inn. From here we climbed Ciste Dubh (black chest) and Aonach Meadhoin (middle hill). The next day we did A' Chralaig (the basket) and Mullach Fraoch-choire (heather-corrie peak) along a magnificent ridge. Haggis neeps and tatties in the Cluanie Inn went down well with a couple of pints of 'Wilder-ness' beer.

Dorothy walking down Gleann nam Fhiadh on the way to Toll Creagach.

The South Glen Shiel ridge in early morning sunlight from the slopes of A' Chralaig

The last two Munros were Sron a' Coire Ghairbh (nose of the rough corrie) and Meall na Teanga (hill of the tongue). We did these from the car park by the eas Cia-aig waterfalls on the Mile Dorcha near Loch Lochy. This was a long walk made even longer because we had to follow a diversion while a hydro scheme is being created.

This Munro bagging thing is taking off. Steve and I are offering 3 Munro Bagging HF Holidays based from Glencoe next year. (https://www.hfholidays.co.uk/holidays-and-tours/munro-bagging-glen-coe/).

Party Management at Minor River or Stream Crossings

The Mountain Leader Training Association literature contains plenty of information about the technicalities of managing serious river crossings and quite rightly emphasises the need to avoid them if at all possible. However, here I would like to discuss the management of relatively inexperienced groups on more minor river or stream crossings. The sort of situation where you might comfortably just hop across on a few rocks if you were on your own, where the aim is to try to get across without getting wet feet. Nothing more difficult than that.

I have hopped across a lot of rivers and streams, especially in the Scottish Highlands and the chances are that I will have had a lot more experience of doing this than anyone else in my group. 

Nevertheless, I have found that a previously cohesive group of people who were happily following and trusting me suddenly start to behave strangely when they reach a river or stream. Some people will be worried. Some seem to acquire a desperate need to find their own place to cross. Some will underestimate the risks and others would follow you straight across putting their foot onto a rock the minute your foot left it if you let them. It’s a very strange business and it seems to happen with even the smallest of streams despite the fact that it’s so easy to slip and hurt yourself as soon as you step on slimy wet rocks.

So unless it’s really trivial, I strongly recommend stopping the group just before you get to the stream and telling them to wait. Go take a look and come up with a plan. A bit like managing a group in the mist when you need to take a compass bearing.

You’ve probably arrived at the stream where the path crosses it and this is likely to be a good bet under normal conditions but perhaps there has been a lot of rain. You need to make sure that the least stable person can get across here. Bearing in mind that some stepping stones might be slightly submerged or wobbly, are there some possibly slightly submerged, additional rocks that you could stand on alongside those that he or she might use? Could you stand there and hold out a hand to help them balance? Can you or someone else lend them a walking pole that could be passed back? Would it help if you took their rucksack across for them? If you don’t feel they could cope, then you need to tell the group to take a break while you look elsewhere.

At this point you probably need to manage the people with a desperate need to find their own place to cross. Explain that you have had a lot of practice at crossing rivers and you need to find a place where you not only feel everyone can cross but where the risks are minimised. It may be that there are several large dry stepping stones close to each other that seem easy but if someone did slip they could bang their head, get soaked or worse. It might be better to accept a greater risk of slipping where the only consequence is wet feet. Explain that you are responsible for getting everyone across safely and you would like them to help each other to get across as a group. You don’t want to find out that all the people with good balance and long legs are already on the other side.

If you really can’t find a crossing point nearby, to suit the least stable person then the whole group is either going to have to walk upstream until you can, or you are all going to have to go back. If you are going to head upstream make sure they understand that you are looking for a suitable place to cross and think about how you will get back to your original route safely. Do tributaries on the other side run through gorges for example?

Let’s assume that you have now found somewhere that meets requirements. Go across yourself, leave your rucksack on the far bank, then come back and place yourself in the best position to help people. Have your best two crossers go first and last so that they can help people start to cross and to step onto the far bank. Explain the plan to the whole group and then execute it.

Does all this seem like overkill? Well just pick out the bits that you feel are appropriate but at least remember to manage the situation. Don’t just hop across and hope people will follow you.

Sardinia

I've been learning Italian on and off for about 18 months so I was keen to go on a walking holiday in Italy. Sardinia sounded interesting and a bit different so when we saw that there was a Cicerone guide book, we thought we'd give it a try. Dorothy and I had previously had a good holiday in the Stubai Alps on the Rucksack Route using the Guide Book by Allan Hartley so we bought 'Walking in Sardinia' by Paddy Dillon and planned the trip for April.

We planned to spend ten days there from Friday to Monday - flying from Stansted to Alghero and staying at Dorgali for three nights, Baunei for four nights and Aritzo for the last three.

We'd booked the flights, the accommodation and the car hire on the internet so what could possibly go wrong?

We were expecting a Fiat Panda but they gave us a Renault Jeep, which is quite a large chunky car. Imagine a mini version of a Hummer. Once I'd got used to the controls, sitting on the left and driving on the right, we felt able to turn on the radio and listen to people talking Italian very quickly, but later on we were pleased we had the Jeep!

The Bed and Breakfast place we stayed at in Dorgali was excellent and they were happy to provide us with practically anything for breakfast. This was good as I don't think the default breakfast of sweet biscuits and rolls would have worked for us every morning.

One of Many Lizards

On the first day we walked over Monte Bardia and Cuccuru Cazzeddu from Dorgali to Cala Gonone and back. Cala Gonone is by the sea on the East coast and this was a combination of  two of the walks in the guide. It took us longer than we expected. As the guidebook said, the paths are rocky and stony and when you get there you discover how much this slows you down. The limestone scenery is very dramatic and we had a pleasant if slightly expensive salad in a restaurant overlooking the harbour.

We had planned to get some food for our packed lunch from the supermarket the next day but then we realised that it was Sunday and all the shops were shut. Never mind, we had a few nuts and some fruit. We'd manage. We drove to Oliena and parked by the church. The priest was out chatting to local residents. I hope we didn't pinch someone's parking space.

We walked up a very windy road then a track with many zig zags to finally reach the top of Punta Sos Nidos (1348m). Unfortunately it was bit misty at the top. Tricky route finding following little cairns and rocks in trees got us back via scree and forest tracks. There are so many Holme Oaks here. Also many white Asphodels.

Holme Oaks in the Sunshine

We'd eaten in a couple of different restaurants in the evening and enjoyed some inexpensive local wine along with free glasses of Mirto, the locally made myrtle berry based liqueur.

The next night was to be at an apartment in Baunei but first we went to see the Nuraghic village of Tiscali. The internet company is named after it and it is in a collapsed cave high up in the hills. The broken bridge described in the guide book had been replaced so we didn't have to balance across the river on boulders. Because of the ceramics that were found there, it is thought that the village was originally inhabited in the Bronze Age but also lived in during Roman times.

Tiscali

When we got to Baunei there was no sign of the owner of the apartment. My rudimentary Italian came in handy when I phoned him and explained that we'd booked the next four nights but he was surprised by this. He drove over to meet us and explained that we couldn't stay there because the bathroom was broken and the workmen were coming to repair it in two days time. He did find us an alternative apartment but it was 20 km away. He thought we'd be pleased as it was by the beach. Maybe that's where Victoria Beckham goes but we'd wanted the lovely view from the balcony and the close access to the mountains offered by the original apartment. He was trying to be helpful and as it was getting late, the simplest option was to go with the flow.

Unfortunately Dorothy had twisted her ankle a couple of times during the first three days so we took it easy the next day. I think we both needed a more relaxing day to be honest so we stocked up on food to cook in the apartment and had a look round the village of Santa Maria Navarrese. There are three picturesque rocky islands off shore and we had a nice lunch in a restaurant.

View from Santa Maria Navarrese

By now we were halfway through the holiday. On the Wednesday, we strapped up Dorothy's ankle and drove back through Baunei to Bar Su Porteddu near Golgo and followed the path to Cala Goloritze. This is by the sea and features in several local postcards with its sea tunnel and rocky limestone spire. We bathed our feet and Dorothy painted while a local school party played on the beach. We speculated that it was officially a Geography trip but in reality a pleasant day out for all concerned including the teacher. I expect they arrived and left by boat judging from the footwear. On the way we saw wild sows with their piglets snuffling about as well as goats. We made a detour to the top of Punta Salinas from where we could see a lot of the North West Coast and we met the boars on the way back.

Looking North from Punta Salinas

On Thursday I drove to Trieu and we went to see the Tomba dei Giganti (Tomb of the Giants) - an arc of stone slabs flanking a very large passage grave. The walk continued past many springs and fountains (sorgenti e fontane) often set into elaborate walls, troughs or even buildings. We often saw locals filling up plastic bottles from these springs so they are probably felt to have health benefits. I almost drove into the tailgate of a van and had a bit of a 'misunderstanding' with a woman on a zebra crossing on the way there, but no harm done!

Tomba Dei Giganti

On Friday we went back to Santa Maria Navarrese and walked along the cliffs to Pedra Longa, another huge limestone pinnacle. We then drove over very twisty mountain roads to the village of Aritzo which is further inland and where the geology is very different. Here there is granite and schist rather than the limestone with occasional basalt lava flows we had seen along the East coast. Allow plenty of time if you are using these twisty roads.

We stayed in a family run hotel and the next day we walked up Brunca Spina and Punta la Marmora, the highest point on the island at 1834m. From here you should be able to see most of the island but for us it was bit hazy. The drive to the walk was interesting. The road ran out of tarmac at one point and just became a rough track. Then a series of ridges made from hard mud, before going back to a track and after about a kilometer going back to tarmac. Good job we had the Jeep. Did the budget run out?

Back at the hotel I asked the owner about it. "Questa strada è rotto" (This road is broken) I said pointing to the map. He explained that it had been like that for 6 years and they tried to avoid going that way in the winter!

On our last walking day we drove to Tonara, a nearby village where they make Nougat. Unfortunately it was Sunday again so we couldn't try it. We ascended Punta Muggianeddu, an excellent viewpoint, on good tracks and extended the walk to include Punta Perdu Abes.

Artistic Schist

The weather had been more cloudy for the last two days which made for more pleasant walking conditions. Before that it had been warm but nevertheless quite bearable. We'd only had to put up with a small shower all holiday. Given the number of flowers we saw, especially some gorgeous purple crocuses, I'd say this was a good time of year to go.

No problems on the flight back. I had scuffed the rubber on the side of the Jeep and we were a bit worried about it. Over the week the vehicle had become nice and muddy so that the scuff was almost unnoticeable but on the way back to the airport the clouds opened and cleaned the car! We got away with it though.

The guide book was really useful but Paddy walks quite a bit faster than us.

Progress with the Munros

Having failed to do any Munros in 2014, I was keen to get the ball rolling again and get some winter walking in before spring had sprung. I also wanted to try out our mini camper van, a converted Citroen Berlingo. 

On Saturday I drove to Glen Feshie, which is directly South of Aviemore and spent the night in the van in the parking area at the end of the road. Bearing in mind the fact that many rivers were in spate, I thought it would be best to cross the Feshie, walk down to Carnachuin and cross back thus avoiding crossing the Allt Garbhlach. Unfortunately the second bridge had been washed away so I had to retrace my steps back to the first bridge. This added about 6 km (90 minutes) to the walk.

In the end I did manage to cross the Allt Garbhlach using a fallen Scots Pine.

Natural Bridge

The way up Mullach Clach a Bhlair (1019m) is on a wide track nearly to the summit but at the top there were White Out conditions. At one point I was walking in what seemed to be complete space with no reference points just keeping the compass needle between the two fluorescent strips on the compass.

I returned the same way and drove to the parking space at the end of the C Road, North West of Newtonmore. The forecast for the following day was for gales later, so I decided to start off early.

Sunday turned out to be quite an adventure and I was on my way by 6.30 am. There was a beautiful Sunrise.

Sunrise over Newtonmore

Sunrise over Newtonmore

I walked to Glenballoch then headed NW alongside the Allt Fionndrigh. (Allt means 'river' in Gaelic, known more colloquially as a 'burn'). After about 3 km there is a bridge across the river.

Bridge over the Allt Fionndrigh

I then crossed over the bealach (col) to Glen Ballach and followed that to it's head, turning SW to follow a ramp of hard snow and ice to the bealach below Carn Dearg (945m). By now I had my crampons on and my ice axe in my hand. As there was a strong wind with snow and ice crystals I also had my balaclava and snow goggles on.

Summit of Carn Dearg

Flushed with success, I decided to work my round to Carn Sgulain. This is about 8 km across featureless terrain but there is a line of fence posts so navigation should be fairly straightforward, I thought. As I went up and down over Carn Ban, Carn Balloch and Meall a' Bhothain I was finding the constantly strong side wind very tiring. Following the fence posts is fine until they disappear below deep snow. At these times I was back in White Out world.

It was hard snow so I put the ice axe away but kept the crampons on. By the time I reached Carn Sgulain (920m) I was exhausted. A' Chailleach would have to wait for tomorrow. I descended to the Allt Cuil na Caillich and over the shoulder of A' Chailleach to follow the Allt a' Chaorainn. The shoulder was very hard packed snow and even in my crampons I had to perform a small ice axe self arrest at one point.

I got back to the van at 5.30. A bit of an epic. It was a very windy night with the van being buffeted by gusts of wind and rocking me in my sleeping bag.

The next day I was away at 8 am and trudged back up alongside the Allt a' Chaorainn to a point East of A' Chailleach (The Old Lady). At this point the burn was narrow enough to cross. Getting from there to the summit of A' Chailleach (930m) involved crossing some more hard packed snow fields so the ice axe and crampons were deployed again.

It was snowing when I set out and on top it was cold and windy but the sun came out later and the combination of the sun and snow was lovely and made for some nice photos.

A' Chailleach on the left

Summit of A' Chailleach

Looking back at the summit of A' Chailleach

The cornice over the cliffs to the East of A' Chailleach

Allt a' Chaorainn

I got back to the van at about 3 pm and drove to the car park below Creag Meagaidh at Aberarder by Loch Laggan. There was a Plas y Brenin Minibus there all night so there may have been a group in snow holes somewhere.

I started walking at 7am as, once again, bad weather was forecast for the afternoon. It was quite windy but sunny on the way up with another lovely sunrise and good views of Creag Meagaidh and the distinctive bealach known as 'The Window'.

Sun Rise over Loch Laggan

Creag Meagaidh and The Window

I climbed directly to the top of Carn Liath (1006m). There were some more snow fields but not steep or hard enough to require crampons. At the top it was gale force. I can't remember ever experiencing such a strong wind. I hid behind the summit cairn to put my waterproof jacket on and get my walking pole out. I really thought I was going to have to crawl off the top at one point but just managed to walk off using the pole as a third leg. You can't see the wind in a photo so you'll have to use your imagination.

Creag Meagaidh from the summit of Carn Liath

I was back in the car park by 11 am and with the bad weather coming in I decided it was time to go home. Five more Munros bagged, 55 to go. The van is great but even for one person there isn't much space. Experiencing Scottish Mountains in all these different weathers is amazing but now creature comforts beckon.