Loch Mullardoch and Loch Monar
[Note for Non Scots: Burn is Scottish for a stream. A name that starts with Allt or Uisge is also a stream in Gaelic. Bealach is Gaelic for Col]
There are 4 Munros all on a ridge to the North of Glen Strathfarrar and another 4 all on a ridge to the North of Loch Mullardoch. They are all fairly inaccessible so Dorothy and I set off on a mini expedition to ‘bag’ them with our new Terra Nova Laser Competition II Tent. On Fri 21st October, we drove in our Citroen Berlingo Camper Van from Hebden Bridge to about 1km West of Liatrie in Glen Cannich in the Scottish Highlands (NH237323). This took about 9 hours.
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| Where we went. Original drawing from SMC Guide. |
We slept in the van and next morning, having left a note in the side window to say where we were going we joined another of those ghastly hill tracks. Because of new Electricity Tariffs encouraging hydro schemes and in order to make it easier for people to shoot deer these tracks are being created all over the place and they are ridiculously wide and ugly. Please get involved in the campaign against them at http://www.scotlink.org/workareas/hill-tracks/.
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| A stag checks out our van |
The track eventually stopped near a dam and we headed over the Bealach a Bhaca and descended by the Allt Innis na Larach to Glen Strathfarrar. On this side of the hills there was yet another huge track heading south. The campaign are asking people to let them know about these tracks Either email photos with your name and contact details to hilltracks@scotlink.org or tweet a photo using the hashtag #hilltracks and they will look out for it. I have done the latter from my Twitter account @Pete_Thomasson.
We were heading for Inchvuilt which is quite a way up the glen but had chosen not to cross by the Bealach Fhurain because the bridge shown on the map near Inchvuilt was closed according to trip reports on the WalkHighlands website. Unfortunately, the bridge at 263384 also turned out to be closed. It did still exist though - as a suspension bridge - but the wooden section hanging from the wires was not in great condition. One at a time we gingerly climbed over the “Closed – Danger Sign” and crossed, keeping close to the edge that was best suspended. It would have been a very long walk round otherwise.
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| Bridge Closed! |
This got me wondering if it wouldn’t be possible to have a list of these closed bridges that could be kept up to date by walkers on the internet. I have contacted the MCofS but they aren’t keen.
We then walked along the Glenstrathfarrar road to camp near the confluence of the Allt Toll a’Mhuic and the River Farrar at 223391. We worked out that later we could cross the Garbh-Uisge burn, presumably because water levels were so low, in Loch Mullardoch. This would save us some time on Monday.
The weather had been good all day and we arrived in time to enjoy our Mountain House rehydrated meal (http://www.mountainhouse.eu/main-meals/big-pack-pouches) cooked on my new Esbit Stove that burns fuel blocks (https://esbit.de/en/cookset-for-solid-fuel-cs585ha). I like fuel blocks because you know just how many you need. With gas canisters it’s hard to tell how much cooking is left in them. Admittedly the stove is slow. It takes about 7 minutes to boil half a litre but there’s no shortage of time when you are camping.
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| Sunset from Glen Strathfarrar |
On Sunday morning, we woke at 6:30 and set off up the path below the dramatic cliffs of Sgurr na Muice at 8:30. The path climbs steadily up and across the face of Sgurr na Fearstaig to the ridge. Then on up to Sgurr Fhuar-thuill, the first Munro of the trip.
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| Sgurr na Muice across Loch Toll a' Mhuic |
We then carried on over Creag Gorm a’ Bhealaich (a Munro top) and onto Munro #2, Sgurr a Choire Ghlais. We had incredible views but there was a bitterly cold wind. We thought we could see the Cuillin on Skye but later worked out that it was the Torridon Hills. Down and up onto Carn nan Gobhar (Munro #3) and then finally on to Sgurr na Ruaidhe (Munro #4).
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| Looking East along the ridge |
We headed South East to the Coire Mhuillidh and followed the path back into Glen Strathfarrar. A car was driving up the glen in the right direction even though it was a private road and it was after 6pm, when the gate closes. We stuck out our thumbs and it stopped to pick us up. The driver and passenger lived at, or were heading for Monar Lodge. We asked if we could have a lift back to our tent near Inchvuilt and they agreed. They asked if we had permission to camp and I asked if we needed it. They clearly weren’t crazy about ramblers wandering about but that’s Open Access for you (http://www.outdooraccess-scotland.com/Practical-guide/public/camping).
We were also asked if we had a car in the glen. There are some strange regulations surrounding access to Glen Strathfarrar (http://www.mcofs.org.uk/strathfarrar-access.asp). The gate is only open at certain times and you can’t have a vehicle in the glen overnight. Apparently this is because the wealthy Malaysian businessman who owns the glen is concerned about poaching. Nice of him to allow the road to be used during the day though!
Anyway, they very kindly dropped us off by our tent so we were most grateful as it was dark by now. This saved one and a half hours of walking along the road seeing if we needed to use our head torches or if our eyes would adjust to the dark.
On Monday we packed up the tent and crossed the Garbh-uisge burn. We walked along the northern side of Uisge Misgeach, past the Gleann Innis an Locheil Power Station then left the main track and a couple of men out deerstalking (on 24th Oct?).
We walked alongside the Allt an Eas Bhan Mhoir on a lovely stalkers path up to Loch Mor and found a place to put our tent at the southern end of the loch, just below the ridge (152350). First job, after putting the tent up - dig a deep poo hole.
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| Looking back into Glen Strathfarrar on Monday morning |
We walked alongside the Allt an Eas Bhan Mhoir on a lovely stalkers path up to Loch Mor and found a place to put our tent at the southern end of the loch, just below the ridge (152350). First job, after putting the tent up - dig a deep poo hole.
We’d had another day of good weather although it was cold and windy out of the sun. A south facing corrie would have been sunnier but a lot windier.
Monday night had been cloudless so we awoke to a frosty scene with fantastic views of the stars. You could see The Milky Way stretching across the sky and Orion’s Sword.
On Tuesday we set off Eastwards, at first through frosty grass, then curved round South onto Bealach Toll an Lochain. We only had light packs today. Like Sunday, we could leave a lot of stuff in the tent. Fully laden with 5 days of food my pack weighed about 15kg so these lighter packs were a pleasant change. We ascended Creagan Toll an Lochain onto the end of the very long An Riabhachan ridge. We followed this over the summit (Munro #5) and then down and up to An Socach (Munro #6).
Once more, great views but a cold wind. Coming down from An Socach we were surprised to meet people in such a remote spot - two very friendly guys from Newcastle. We returned to the tent the way we came. Thus climbing An Riabhachan twice.
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| A fence post, an inversion over Loch Monar and me. (All photos taken by Dorothy) |
The weather changed overnight and it was very blowy in the tent. We packed it all up in light rain but it soon eased off. The wind didn’t ease off though. Back up on the ridge it was very strong with gusts that forced you to stand still and lean on your walking pole until they’d passed. The packs were quite a bit lighter now we’d eaten nearly all the food. We still had the litter and some unfinished Nuts and Trail Mix. I think we took a bit too much of that.
We battled our way to the top of Sgurr na Lapaich (Munro #7) and hid behind the cairn that surrounded the trig point. The next bit was tricky as some of it was over slippery boulders. By using the map, compass and Dot’s good path spotting skills, we kept to the right of the spine that goes East from Sgurr na Lapaich and found the path down to Bealach na Cloiche Duibhe. It was then a steady plod to the top of Carn nan Gobhar (Munro#8), once again in strong gusting wind but mixed with rain by now.
Finally, some respite from the wind as we headed for the col before Creag Dubh then S and SSE to join the ugliest new hill track I have ever seen. A wide area at 203330 had been completely flattened by vehicles and it was very difficult to cross in the wet without sinking right in. We followed this ridiculously wide track down to the dam and back to the van.
The cramped van seemed like total luxury. We had been very lucky with the weather, although we now had a fair bit of wet stuff. We were lucky to get that lift and lucky to get across the bridge. All in all, an amazing trip and 8 Munros ‘bagged’. An Socach took Dot to the half way mark (141) and I now have 24 left to do!
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| Loch Mullardoch in the rain. |
