That walk was longer than you said it would be!

“I measured it on my GPS and it was 2.1 km further than you said when you described the walk beforehand.”

Yes, I’m afraid some of the measurements are not as accurate as they could be. The measurements were probably done in the old fashioned way, by tracing out the route with a bit of cotton on the map and them scaling up. The amount of ascent and descent was probably calculated by counting the number of contour lines crossed.

I’m inclined to agree that in this day and age we really should be able to provide data that arises from using satellite technology but in the meantime, does it really matter?

The main thing is to be able to compare one walk with another. If you managed to do a walk that I described as 10 km long yesterday, then you’ll probably be OK with one that I’m describing as 9 km long. Even though yesterday’s was really 12.1 km and tomorrow’s will therefore probably really be about 10.9 km.

Our experience of the environment is based on our relationship with it [Steady on Pete – isn’t that dialectical materialism? – Ed]. The statistics showing distance walked and amount of ascent and descent are only one factor. What about the terrain? It’s a lot tougher negotiating a boulder field than it is crossing a freshly mown field for example. How much are you planning to drink tonight? What about that knee that occasionally plays up? Will it play ball tomorrow?

What will your specific relationship with the environment be like tomorrow? Some people like to run ultra-marathons. Others might be botanists, who will be too busy looking at plants to walk more than a short distance. Most of us are somewhere between the two. We are on a walk partly for the exercise and challenge, partly to enjoy nature and partly to enjoy each other’s company. 

The fact is, that how hard or easy a walk is, is not an exact science. Yes, the stats could be more accurate but does having precise figures make you think that they will define the difficulty? Maybe the ball park figure is better from a psychological perspective because it encourages you to think about all the other factors.

Oh, and while you are on the walk, don’t forget to look at the trees, rocks, plants etc. You’ll get a lot more out of it and if you are enjoying the walk it might not seem so difficult.

-----oooOooo-----

The above thoughts were inspired by a conversation at La Palma, where I was leading last week for HF Holidays. It’s a beautiful island in the Canaries, lying about 450km off the coast of Africa. Whereas Fuertoventura is only about 100 km away from Morocco. The island ‘popped’ up out of the sea about 2 million years ago and consequently all life has found its way there somehow. There are still volcanic eruptions every so often.

Walking on the island is incredibly varied. Ranging from lush laurel forests to sparse volcanic landscapes. Because the wind tends the blow from the North East, that side of the island can be quite wet. The weather is usually warmer and dryer in the South East.

We didn’t get to the highest point on the island, Roque de los Muchachos which is nearly 8,000 ft above sea level! It was too cold and the roads were closed. We were a bit unlucky with the weather. We did get a few showers but we also had a lot of sunshine and it was a lot warmer and sunnier than Yorkshire is in January.

Here are some photos to give you an idea of what it was like:

Black sand at Santa Cruz

Descending into a Barranco (Ravine)

Looking down a Barranco

The lush Laurel Forest

Crossing a lava field

Pine forest growing out of Volcanic rock.

Carnach Bridge in Knoydart Closed

I crossed Carnach Bridge in Knoydart on the Cape Wrath Trail last year and it was looking pretty dodgy then so I'm glad I did the CWT before they took it away:- https://www.mountaineering.scot/news/important-knoydart-bridge-closed

This is what it looked like when I crossed:

Walks Leading in 2017

It's been a while since my last post because I don't want a blog full of stuff about what I did [You're kidding. It's full of that stuff! - Ed.]. I also want a bit of philosophy in there. [Oh yeah! Let's hear some then - Ed.] {Please ignore comments from the Editor - Pete}. [Grrr... - Ed.]

Since June I led walks for 2 weeks at Selva (aka Wolkenstein) in the Dolomites (Italy), Neustift in the Stubai Alps (Austria) and back at Glencoe (Scottish Highlands). The second week at Glencoe was the Munrobagging II holiday. Here are just a few of the photos I took that demonstrate what beautiful places they are.

Selva

Sassolunga

From the Seceda Cable Car Top Station

Sella Gruppe from Utia Forceles Mountain Restaurant

Sella Hut

Neustift

Below Zwolfernieder Col

Below the Hoher Burgstall

Sulzenau Glacier

Glencoe

Binnein Beag and Aonach Beag from Sgurr Eilde Mor

In October I led for a week in the Cinque Terra in Italy. We were based at Bonassola. I arrived in Pisa on the Manchester flight and whilst waiting for the London flight I had time to visit the leaning tower of Pisa.

Leaning Tower of Pisa

One of the things I have learnt from these trips is that for me, feeling part of a team is an important aspect of walks leading for HF Holidays. That is to say, working alongside the other leaders, staff and hotel management to provide a good holiday. It is easier to feel this way when you return to places you've already been. Of course, there has to be a first time, but for 2018, I have applied to lead in places where I have already led.

In a previous blog I wrote about mindfulness and linked to the NHS website where it says: "Becoming more aware of the present moment can help us enjoy the world around us more and understand ourselves better. When we become more aware of the present moment, we begin to experience afresh things that we have been taking for granted."

I have been thinking about this and I agree with it but I don't think there is anything wrong with daydreaming either. Some of my best ideas have come to me when I have been daydreaming. Either whilst walking or in the shower. Sometimes I wake up with ideas so I guess that's nightdreaming.

So my conclusion is that you need both: Mindfulness and Daydreamyness [Is that a word? Ed.] and walking in the mountains gives you opportunities to do both.

Munrobagging Blog

As I mentioned in my previous blog, here is the link to Sabi's article about the Munrobagging holiday I led for HF Holidays in May.

Leading Walks from HF Glencoe and Munrobagging with Dorothy around Glen Tilt

On Friday 26th May I drove to Alltschellach, the HF Holidays House in North Ballachulish near Glencoe to lead another Munrobagging week. We have now developed a Munrobagging 2 holiday so this one is now officially Munrobagging 1. I was joined by 8 walkers, 4 men and 4 women, and one of the walkers was a Freelance Journalist - Sabi Phagura. HF invited her onto the holiday to write an article about it which has yet to be be published. Naturally, I will be posting a link to it when it comes out. (Unless it's highly critical of course!). In the meantime, here is Sabi's blog.

Descending Sgurr a' Bhuic

On the Munrobagging holiday we had planned to do ten Munros: Beinn Sgulaird, Stob Ghabhar, Stob a Choire Odhair, Binnein Mor, Na Gruagaichean, Carn Liath, Stob Poite Coire Ardair, Creag Meagaidh, Aonach Beag and Aonach Mor. However, the wind was very strong on Binnein Mor and people were looking a bit cold so I scratched Na Gruagaichean and we went back the way we came. They were a strong walking group and all got on well. We had a good mix of Scottish Weather with some fantastic views as well as wind and rain.

Cold but Sunny on Aonach Beag with Ben Nevis in the background

The next week I was leading a normal Guided Walking week from Alltshellach. HF offers an easier walk, a medium walk and a harder walk each day on their UK holidays. The three leaders share these. I had three Mediums, an Easier and a Harder. Unfortunately, I had to cancel the Harder Walk the night before, because the forecast was for rain and high winds. This was a shame because it was on Bidean nam Bian, one of my favourite mountains. I did get to visit the lovely Island of Lismore and I got up onto the Mamore Ridge again. It always reminds me of the time I did all of them when I was 19! [That's enough nostalgia - Ed.]

After this, I drove over to meet Dorothy off the train at Pitlochry station. We stayed two nights at Pitlochry and climbed An Socach from Baddoch, North of the Glen Shee Ski Centre.

"Is it OK if I just do a quick drawing?"

Bridge over the River Tarf with the Falls of Tarf in the Background

Then we spent 6 nights camping in Glen Tilt and going up another 9 Munros. Here is the entry from my Mountain Leader Training Log. Skip this if you don't want all the technical details:

The next day we drove to the Old Bridge of Tilt Car Park and left the car there. We walked up Glen Tilt and camped near the Falls of Tarf. Next day we went over Caen Creannock to reach An Sgarsoch then on to Carn an Fhidleir (Carn Ealer). Then cross country to cut out An Sgarsoch on the way back. On the next day we went East to ascend Beinn Iutharn Mhor via Fealar Lodge. We skirted across the NW side of Mam nan Carn and ascended Carn an Righ. then down to the wide track and back to the tent via Fealar Lodge. Next day we packed up the tent and walked back down Glen Tilt to camp just North of Marble Lodge. Next day we walked directly across to Carn Liath then along the Beinn a Ghlo ridge over Braigh Coire Chruinn-bhalgain and Carn nan Gabhar. Then over spot height 898 and down to Glen Tilt. We then had 8 km on the wide track to get back to the tent. Next day we walked up the track to Carn a` Chlamain and then across to Beinn Dearg by going round the back of Carn a Chiaraidh and over Elrig`ic an Toisich to the summit of Beinn Dearg. We returned over Carr Feith nan Sac, Beinn a` Chait and Elrig to the tent. On the last day we walked back to the car and drove home.

Spot the tent

Surprisingly lush and green - Glen Tilt

From a wild camping perspective, the weather was very good. We had little rain in the valley and enough of a breeze to keep the midges at bay nearly all the time. However, we had very few views from the summits as there was a blanket of low cloud at about 800m for most of the week. Fantastic navigation practice though. On several occasions I had to get us from one ridge to another or along a ridge in hours of mist. In particular I learnt how easy it is to underestimate how long it takes to cover ground when it is thick heather and/or peat bog.

The River Tilt

Beautiful Example of Devils Matchstick and Pixie Cup Lichen near the Summit of Beinn Dearg

We saw lots of wild flowers and frogs. We also saw newts, voles and a lizard. Only nine more Munros to go now!

One of the things I most enjoyed about the three weeks was the Mindfulness. I only heard of this recently and unfortunately it has already become a bit of a cliché, with no end of mindfulness books now available. A search on Amazon shows up over 25,000 books including "Mindfulness on the Go: Includes 52 cards and a 64-page illustrated book, all in a flip-top box with an easel to display your mindfulness cards" or "Mindfulness for Dogs"!

However - to keep it simple - walking along, looking at the world and being more aware of the present is good for someone like me who probably spends too much time planning ahead and not enough time living in the moment.

Cape Wrath Trail - Cape Wrath

John, who'd walked from Lands End to John o'Groats last year, had phoned the Rhiconich Hotel to say that he'd had to drop out because of his knees. He'd asked them to let Peter from The Netherlands and I share the parcel he'd sent ahead. 10 Hamlet Cigars anyone? Also some very heavy food. However there were some nice fruit bars. Vultures?

Having checked that there were no military exercises taking place around Cape Wrath I set off for Sandwood Bay.

“Facing straight into the teeth of the North Atlantic, the beach has nearly 1.5 miles of wide pink sand which is flanked by cliffs. To the south stands the impressive sea stack of Am Buachaille, while behind the bay’s large dunes stretches Sandwood Loch - a freshwater loch full of brown trout. The beach is considered to be one of the most unspoilt beaches in the whole of mainland Britain.” – Visit Scotland Website

The walk over to Strathchalleach Bothy was trackless and boggy and it alternated between sunshine and showers making it difficult to know what to wear.

Boggy Trackless Terrain

I dumped my stuff at the Bothy and walked over to Sandwood Bay. It felt like I was flying as I didn't have the heavy rucksack. I had a paddle at the beach and said goodbye to Peter, who was camping at Sandwood Bay
and then returned to the bothy.

Cape Wrath from Sandwood Bay

I was sharing with Andrew, who had walked from Kirk Yetholm, where the Pennine Way finishes - on The Scottish National Trail. Sandra and Steve also arrived, who had been doing the CWT in three stages and had walked from Ullapool despite Sandra's blisters! Andrew got the peat fire going.

Looking back at Sandwood Bay

I started the last leg of my journey to Cape Wrath over some more trackless boggy ground and got to Cape Wrath in time to get the minibus and ferry to take me to Keoldale, leaving a couple of miles walk to Furness.

Cape Wrath Lighthouse

North Coast of Scotland

I was very lucky to be able to do this as the ferry hadn't run on Monday or Tuesday because of the high winds. 

Its been really enjoyable. According to the proprietor of The Ozone Cafe at Cape Wrath about 1 person a day completes the Trail. I don't know how I would have coped if there had been a lot of rain and the rivers had been in spate but that's not what happened. I had amazing weather, walked through beautiful landscape and met some really interesting people. It's been amazing!

The plan now is to go home by bus and then train tomorrow.

Cape Wrath Trail - Rhiconich

Quinag from Inchnadamph in the evening.

After a good nights sleep, a substantial dinner and a large cooked breakfast at the Inchnadamph Hotel, the path took me uphill over the bealach (col) below Glas Bheinn then down to Loch Glencoul.

Looking South across Glencoul at Quinag.

It was misty at first making the section after the col an interesting navigational challenge.

However, the path wins Footpath of the Trail Award for its inconspicuousness, its good surface and its gentle gradient.

On the way I passed Eas a’ Chual Aluinn. The name is an English mangling of the original Gaelic which translates as 'waterfall of the beautiful tresses'. At 200m high, this is the highest single-drop waterfall in Britain and when in full flow it is over three times higher than Niagara Falls. A local legend is that a woman threw herself off the cliff to avoid being married to a man she did not love and that as she fell her tresses spread out behind her forming the waterfall.

Eas a' Chual Aluinn

Then after Glencoul Bothy the path roughly follows the line of the Cambrian Quartzite next to the Glencoul Thrust. No. It isn't true that the Glen Cool Thrust is a dance move made famous by a groovy Folk Singer from Kinlochbervie!

This image from http://www.visitsutherland.org/glencoul-thrust-british-geological-survey/ shows how ancient Lewisian Gneiss has been forced on top of younger Quartzite.

At Glencoul Bothy, where I stopped for a break, I met Pierre, a French Canadian doing the CWT. At Glendhu Bothy I met Antoine and Nadine, a French couple who were doing the CWT from Inchnadamph to Cape Wrath in very short stages because they had Artur, their 20 month old son with them! They had him walking as much as possible because he was very heavy to carry.

After a night at Glendhu Bothy, with it actually raining, the next stop was a wild camp by Loch Stack, below Ben Stack. Where Robin Cook the Labour politician who resigned from the Cabinet and as Leader of the House of Commons over the Iraq War, died in 2005.

Ben Stack is a Graham

The next day was a relatively short one alongside the Rhiconich River to reach the Rhiconich Hotel but quite rough walking.

From Rhiconich you can see Foinaven, at just under 3000ft this is a Corbett and like Arkle that I walked past earlier it had a racehorse named after it.

Arkle from the tent by Loch Stack

Foinavon, ridden by John Buckingham, was a rank outsider at odds of 100/1 to win the 1967 Grand National, and his owner Cyril Watkins had such little belief in his chances that he was not even at the course.

Arkle became a national legend in Ireland. His strength was jokingly claimed to come from drinking Guinness twice a day. At one point, the slogan Arkle for President was written on a wall in Dublin. The horse was often referred to simply as "Himself", and the story goes that he received items of fan mail addressed to 'Himself, Ireland'.

We are now in Sutherland where some of the worst Highland Clearances took place. This story from Set Adrift Upon the World: The Sutherland Clearances by James Hunter shows that they didn’t always go quietly.

[Like] the fate which overtook Sheriff-Officer Donald Bannerman when he and two colleagues, Alexander Ross and Alexander MacKenzie, attempted to serve eviction notices on people living in a place called Gruids.To get to Gruids, the three men had taken the ferry that made regular crossings of the River Shin a little way downstream from the present-day village of Lairg. As they approached the Gruids bank, the ferryman, John Murray, well aware of who his passengers were and why they had made the long journey from Golspie, remarked – sarcastically – that a warm welcome doubtless awaited them.

Hearing this, all three asked to be returned to the opposite shore. Murray, however, declined to oblige. Left with no alternative but to disembark, Bannerman and his colleagues did so – only to see, as Bannerman put it, ‘a number of persons, mostly women armed with sticks and cudgels, making towards them’. Soon, said Bannerman, this crowd – about a hundred strong – ‘violently seized’ him. The ‘precepts of removing’, as the sheriff-officer called the documents he had hidden about his person, were quickly found. Then, while one or two of his assailants went to fetch (from a nearby home) an already burning piece of fuel that could be used to kindle a fire, the rest of the ‘mob’, young women to the fore, ‘stripped him naked ... threw him down, and bound his hands behind his back’.

The weather has continued to be incredible, if a little windy and it's hard to believe that I am nearly there!