Cape Wrath Trail - Kinlochewe

From Strathcarron, the route continues North (no surprises there!) alongside the Fionn-arbhainn river and ascends to Bealach Ban. This isn't very far but I had decided to camp here so that I could climb Beinn Liath Mhor (Torridon) (big grey hill) and Sgorr Ruadh (red peak) in the afternoon.

Looking down a Stratcarron and the route I'd followed from the summit of Sgorr Ruadh

It was another lovely warm sunny day with a slight breeze and from the top of these hills I could see The Cuillin Ridge on Skye, trotternish, Liathach, Beinn Eighe, Ben Alligin and all the hills around Loch Mullardoch that Dorothy and I walked on last year. I got back to the tent at about 6:30, just time for dinner and bed.

Bealach Ban

I was up and away at 7.15 from Bealach Ban and I descended to, and crossed the A896. Then right round the back of Ruadh-stac Mor passing near the site of the crashed Lancaster Bomber. This happened in 1951 near the summit of Beinn Eighe. All eight crew from RAF Kinloss died and the difficulties in recovering the bodies led to the formation of RAF Mountain Rescue. In a strange twist to the story in 2008, a climber's fall during an avalanche was arrested by a propeller from the plane and although he was injured he survived.

Liathach at 8am

Torridon Mountains (Flowerdale Forest)

Waterfall at the outflow of Coire Mhic Fhearchair

The going was very difficult once the path ran out. Mile after mile of rocks, heather, and hummocks. However, the views of the Torridon mountains were well worth it and once again, hardly a cloud in the sky.

Finally, I descended into Kinlochewe feeling very tired and with aching feet at 6pm. Definitely the toughest day so far! Lovely to be greeted by Dorothy though when I got to Kinlochewe hotel.

The name Kinlochewe implies that this is the settlement that lies at the head of Loch Ewe. Which is a bit odd as Loch Ewe is the sea loch on which you find Poolewe, some fifteen miles to the north west. The answer lies in the fact that until around 1700 Loch Maree was also called Loch Ewe. The name was changed to commemorate St Mealrubha, who is credited with bringing Christianity to Wester Ross and who had a cell on Isle Maree, one of Loch Maree's islands.

The north east side of Loch Maree is dominated by one of Scotland's most attractive mountains, Slioch or the spear. Today it is natural to think of that shore of the loch as being just as wild as the vast area of mountainous wilderness beyond Slioch. It is odd to realise that for centuries the Slioch side of the loch carried the drove road from Poolewe to markets at Dingwall and Inverness: and it was the south west side of the loch that was the less travelled.

From the early 1600s English ironmasters set up furnaces at Letterewe on the north east shore of Loch Maree and at its eastern end. For over 50 years, iron ore was imported by sea from England for processing, because it was far easier to transport than the vast amount of charcoal needed to process it.

The industry ceased after it has consumed all the readily available woodland in a wide area of Wester Ross. In a sad case of history repeating itself, during the Second World War much of the woodland that had recovered since the 1600s was cut down to make ammunition boxes to support the war effort.