Tour De France in Yorkshire

It was a lovely sunny day on Sunday as the cyclists rode past our house in Hebden Bridge on the way from York to Sheffield. The roads had been cleared and the 'caravan' of cars and trucks giving away small cycling gifts had gone by when suddenly... whoosh, the breakaway group sped by. Then, two minutes later the peleton. All over in a flash. 

Tour De France in Hebden Bridge

We went over the road to the park to watch the rest on the big screen. Everyone has been saying how wonderful it was but I'm not sure it was really the cycling that they enjoyed. After all the cyclists went by in about three minutes. I think they enjoyed each other! Everyone was out on the streets having a good time together instead of being stuck in their boxes (homes) watching TV.

Calder Holmes Park

There was something slightly surreal about watching the race on television then popping out of your house and being in it. Then going across the road to what seemed like a festival or a protest rally.

The day before I'd returned from a week leading for HF at Brecon. We had some excellent weather and I think the wide empty expanses of the Brecon Beacons made a packed Hebden Bridge even more of a contrast.

Bannau Sir Gaer and Llyn y Fan Fach

Walenki

As you'll have read in the last post, I have been finding out more about this dance. It's "a Russian style dance to an instrumental version of a traditional Russian folksong telling the tale of a young girl wishing to go and see her lover on a cold winter’s day and calling for her “Walenki” (Russian Boots) which have been hidden by her mother. She does not find them, but goes out into the cold anyway knowing her love will keep her feet warm." (HF Dance Instructions).

Here are the lyrics:

Валенки да валенки ой да неподшиты стареньки
Нельзя валенки носить
Не в чем к миленькой сходить
Валенки валенки эх неподшиты стареньки
Валенки валенки эх неподшиты стареньки
Ой ты Коля Коля Николай сиди дома не гуляй
Не ходи на тот конец ох не носи девкам колец
Валенки валенки эх неподшиты стареньки
Валенки валенки
Чем подарочки носить лучше б валенки подшить
Валенки валенки эх неподшиты стареньки
Валенки валенки эх неподшиты стареньки
Суди люди суди бог как же я любила
По морозу босиком к милому ходила
Валенки валенки эх неподшиты стареньки
Валенки валенки

OK. You want a translation. I found this although I can't vouch for it:

Valenki da valenki
Valenki, valenki
oj da nepodshity, staren'ki
Oh, are not restored and are old
Nel'zja valenki nosit'
It is impossible to wear valenki
Ne v chem k milen'koj shodit'
There is nothing to put on to go to the darling
Valenki, valenki
Valenki, valenki
jeh nepodshity staren'ki
Ehh, are not restored and are old
Valenki, valenki
Valenki, valenki
jeh nepodshity staren'ki
Ehh, are not restored and are old
Oj ty Kolja, Kolja, Nikolaj,
Oh, you, Kolya, Kolya, Nikolay*
sidi doma, ne guljaj
Stay at home, do not walk
Ne hodi na tot konec
Do not go to that street
oh ne nosi devkam kolec
Oh, do not bring rings to the girls
Valenki, valenki
Valenki, valenki
jeh nepodshity, staren'ki
Ehh, are not restored and are old
Valenki, valenki
Valenki, valenki
Chem podarochki nosit'
Instead of carrying gifts
luchshe b valenki podshit'
[b]it is better to restore the valenki[b]
Valenki valenki
Valenki, valenki
jeh nepodshity staren'ki
Ehh, are not restored and are old
Valenki valenki
Valenki, valenki
jeh nepodshity staren'ki
Ehh, are not restored and are old
Sudi ljudi sudi bog
People and God, judge me by
kak zhe ja ljubila
the power of my love:
Po morozu bosikom
during the frost I went barefoot
k milomu hodila
to my darling

Since we are now onto the Folk Song rather than the dance do check out this lovely musical version. Or this incredible version. I bet you you couldn't dance to that!

How about a version that includes the lyrics? Here we go

Well. If you're still here, there's a version with a bass balalaïka and here they tell you how the boots are made! OK Enough!

Back at Glencoe

I have been back to Alltshellach (Glencoe), leading again for HF. I just love this area so much. I suppose there are so many memories from when I led there in my youth.

In the first week I was being 'monitored' by one of the other walking leaders. Having led for HF on four occasions before, this allowed HF to take me off probation. I'm glad to say that it went well.

At Alltshellach I found the Mamores Book where, in the 70s and 80s people had written their attempts at walking the whole Mamore Ridge in a day. These include ten munros:

• Mullach nan Coirean (939 m)
• Stob Bàn (999 m)
• Sgurr a' Mhàim (1099 m)
• Am Bodach (1032 m)
• Stob Coire a' Chàirn (981 m)
• An Gearanach (982 m)
• Na Gruagaichean (1056 m)
• Binnein Mòr (1130 m)
• Binnein Beag (943 m)
• Sgurr Eilde Mòr (1010 m)

In 1977 we started in Kinlochleven at 6am and returned at 10 pm. We did them in reverse order to the above list because, with Binnean Beag and Sgurr Eilde Mor being outliers we decided that the temptation to give up on them at the end of the day might have been too much for us.

I'll never be as fit as that again. Great day out though!

Meanwhile back in 2014...

During the 2 weeks I got to the top of Sgorr Dhonuill (twice), Sgurr Ban, Sgurr Dearg (all on Beinn a Bheithir), Stob Ban and Sgurr a Mhaim via the devils ridge and Meall Breac just across the Corran Ferry.

I also got to walk in Glen Nevis up to Steall, on the West Highland Way, in the beautiful Ariundle Nature Reserve near Strontian, up to Loch Eilde Mor and below the cliffs of Ben Nevis.

Only the first day was wet, otherwise just the odd shower.

Looking North from Sgurr Dhonuil

I met some lovely people and was lucky enough to work with six other really good walking leaders over the two weeks.

Dorothy joined me for the second week. I am hoping this will be a successful formula in future so that we can have a holiday together as well as me leading walks.

HF offer evening entertainment. This might be a talk by a local speaker or something organised by the Walking Leaders. I've been working on a Murder Mystery evening. I tried it out twice at Alltshellach. It seemed to go down well but I'll be revising it based on feedback.

I also called the my first Scottish Country Dance for about 30 years. I'd like to do more of that and I've been investigating a dance called Walenki. Check out this youtube clip but possible incorporating 'stamping' as in this version and extra up and overs as see here.

If you watched all three clips I bet that tune is now stuck in your head. Well I'm getting carried away now so I'll put more about Walenki in another post.

Now I've passed my probation I'm hoping to be able to lead abroad. I do have my Open University Certificate in German although without much use, it gets a bit rusty. However HF really need people who can lead in Italy so I am teaching myself Italian. I'll write that up in another post. Ciao!

Autumn Colours and Rain near Crianlarich

Dorothy and I returned to Crianlarich this week to try to bag some more Munros but the weather was not good. We have been very lucky over the years on our trips to Scotland so I guess we were bound to get a week like this sooner or later. Nevertheless, just because it's going to be wet doesn't mean you shouldn't give it a try. You are often rewarded.

 

We found that early in the morning gave us the best weather and on several days we managed to get up high enough to see the incredible autumn colours in the shifting light that only sunshine and showers can provide.

Once we were away from the road we never met a soul. Walking like this you feel as if you are stepping outside of time. I know the landscape is man-made but there's nothing 2013 here. Certainly my 1991 SMC District Guide Book to the Southern Highlands doesn't feel in the least bit out of date but it's more than that. Time itself seem irrelevant somehow.

I haven't added captions to the two pictures above because I didn't take them of a place. It's the lighting and the colours that are so superb not the location. Although where else could this be but the Highlands of Scotland?

 

Loch Lyon from Beinn Mhanach

However, this spot just near the top of Beinn Mhanach, looking down at Loch Lyon really is a fantastic location. You can see the ridges that lead up to Meall Ghaordaidh that we'd been up the day before and in the distance Ben Lawers. 5 minutes later it was snowing!

We found some lovely walks in the valley on the days when a forecast of high winds and heavy rain meant that it would be plain foolhardy to go above 3,000 ft. Look at this view of Loch Katrine from Ben An (454m) and the disused railway line in Glen Ogle must be cycling heaven.

Loch Katrine from Ben An

 

Leading with HF in 2013

That's it for this year:- a week at Freshwater Bay on the Isle of Wight, at Derwent Bank near Keswick in the Lake District, at Alltshellach near Glencoe in the Scottish Highlands and at Dolserau Hall just outside Dolgellau in Snowdonia. It has been a fantastic experience.

People on the walks have asked me what I'm getting out of it, especially when the mist is down or when I'm obviously walking at a much slower pace than I would if I were alone. 'Isn't it a big responsibility considering you're a volunteer?'

The whole HF Holiday experience is about enjoying other people's company both on the walks as well as in the evenings. That's why we sit in large groups for meals and people are encouraged to mingle. That's why a short piece of evening entertainment is arranged where everyone can join in if they want to - possibly even some country dancing! And, of course, everyone gets to know each other on the walks. Walking along chatting to someone is so much more pleasurable than sitting down doing it, as you are sharing an experience, you can talk about the world as it goes by and you can easily move on and talk to someone else without it being a snub. Not to mention enjoying the countryside of course. If you haven't tried it, it sounds a bit naff doesn't it? All these elements haven't changed since I first started leading 36 years ago (OMG!) but trust me, the formula still works and its fun.

So the obvious answer to the 'what am I getting out of it' question is that I'm getting a free HF Holiday but there's definitely more to it than that. Taking a group of people out for a walk, whether that means pottering along by the River Yar in the sunshine or getting to the top of Bidean nam Bian in mist and rain, is a very satisfying experience if you can see that they have had an enjoyable day.

There's more though: navigating successfully in the mist, pointing out things around you, making sure you go at a comfortable pace whilst not missing the coach back at the end, not eating so much delicious food that you go home heavier than when you left, are just some of the challenges. I certainly haven't got it right every time but you wouldn't get any satisfaction if it was easy would you?

Dorothy and I went for a walk in the Moelwyns just south of Snowdon last weekend, before I drove over to Dolgellau. We camped at the very efficient Llyn Gwynant Campsite the night before and after. So I just thought I'd sign off this entry with this lovely picture of the begining of Autumn in the Welsh hills.

LLyn below Cnicht

Back Leading for HF at Glencoe

How fantastic to be back at Glencoe leading again! We had some great weather last week with only the one wet day. Lismore Island is still as beautiful and we even got to the top of Bidean with the Harder walk and Sgurr an Iubhair with the Medium walk. There were 24 guests from Switzerland whose first language was French and they really mixed in well.

I discovered a downside of having a jacket that's truly waterproof - the breast pocket fills up with water if you have to keep putting your compass in and out of there. I only realised after I put my mobile phone in as well. It's not looking too healthy at the moment!

Here's a shot of Stob Ban from the West Highland Way.

The ascent of Spik near Kranska Gora in Slovenia

We caught the 08:26 bus from Kranska Gora bus station which costs about 3.50 Euros to Mihov Dom which is just past bend number 4 on the way to the Vrsic pass. Directly across the road a path drops down to join a track leading to the Koca v Krnici hut. The route was in shadow with the sun just beginning to break through which meant that we could start the walk in the shade. This was an even greater bonus as we began to climb steeply up the Gruntovnica valley.

Gruntovnica Valley

After picking our way through large boulders and dwarf pine the path turned left (NW) on a rising traverse across the side of Gamsova spica (Chamois Peak). From here you can look up at the majesty of Razor and Prisank.

We'd climbed Prisank the day before. It was cloudier then but there was some brilliant scrambling on slabs near the top.

Razor (centre) and Prisank (Right)

We carried on NE and then East around the peak continuing to climb until we reached the ridge that led towards the summit of Spik. We were now at about 1,900 m above sea level with just over half the climbing done.

Jalovec and Mangart from Gamsova spica

From here it was a long haul to the base of Lipnica where we encountered some steep scrambling with an intimidating looking wire cable to help us!

Fixed Steel Rope on the way Lipnica

From the top of this section it went down and then up again. With our maps in our pockets and the sun blazing down this made us think we were nearly at the summit of Spik. We were in fact at the top of Lipnika. The view was superb but ahead of us the lay the true summit of Spik and it did not look at all straightforward!

Spik from Lipnica

We climbed down to the jagged rocks that cross the col. We scrambled across those jagged rocks. We had a short conference about whether or not to carry on, then we gingerly worked our way to the top aided by a few cables, metal staples and spikes. It wasn't really the sections with the climbing aids that were the problem. It was those were they were absent that really made you focus. To be more accurate - despite the exposure there are actually plenty of handholds and footholds.

Once at the top of Spik (2473 m) we really felt we had achieved something. The views were incredible as we finally tucked into our lunch having climbed about 1600 metres all told.

Panoramic view from the summit of Spik: Lto R: Skrlatica, Razor, Prisank, Jalovec and Mangart on the Italian border.

Jalovec

The chuffs looked disappointed as they'd clearly been hoping there would be some lunch left over for them.

Chuffs on Spik

On the way up there had been some discussion about the best way down but time was getting on and we didn't really want to go all the way back over Lipnica to retrace our steps on the descent. The scree run down from the col looked a little intimidating but was certainly going to be a quick and exhilarating way down.

 

The quick way down.

Keep right on the way down to avoid a very large crag and eventually, after getting the stones out of your boots, you are back amongst the dwarf pines. The fun isn't over though because there are plenty more limestone rocky steps to clamber down.

Rocky steps amongst the dwarf pines on the way down

Finally we reached the bottom of the valley. Water reappears from the hidden depths that it's been trickling through to form the Piscnica River and you follow the valley down to Kranska Gora having descended about 1800m.

I was rationing out my 2 litres of water towards the end but this is an amazing walk that has absolutely everything, especially when the weather is as good as this. A cracking day but my knees definitely need a rest!